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Showing content with the highest reputation since 04/21/2019 in all areas

  1. 5 points
    Looking at your first picture, I believe you are cutting too deep and cutting into the backing paper. Reset your blade length as per MZ SKEETER'S instructions and reduce your pressure settings. You should barely be making an indentation on the backing paper with your blade.
  2. 4 points
    comments should be about the problem - not personality conflicts. if it continues the thread will be locked Dirt fisherman - keep in mind the people on here helping volunteer their time (many for several years) when it appears someone is not even trying to find answers themselves they do get frustrated and someone with 19 years of experience they might be expecting them to have a solid knowledge of basic functions - - Most of these people read EVERY post on here trying to help - so long winded replies calling everyone condescending puts people in a defensive mode instead of a helpful mode - lets keep the questions and answers condensed without getting personal.
  3. 3 points
    Yes, Dakota, that is how the 'Drop Shadow' function in Vm works. As far as not having the 2 layers over top of one another; Ungroup the 2 layers (grouped by Default when Created with the Drop Shadow Module) And Punch them out. (Not sure if the Cut Version has all these Features.
  4. 3 points
    The old timers here, are here to help. We do not know every program out there. we use what we use. Combined, we do know every program for design and cutting. In my opinion, grab a beer and click on help is a fantastic idea. There is more in that click than you can get waiting for help from the forum. In my humble opinion.
  5. 2 points
    Jenna Sue (Regular) Find my font best $50 you will ever spend
  6. 2 points
    Angie I saw that machine on CL and wondered if they got it sold. I am the mod mentioned and actually here in your area and run a newer Summa. That machine is pretty old but as long as it's been taken care of should be a good option especially at what you paid for it. I recommend trying out the free Signblazer if you're on a super tight budget and don't already have design skills. I run a mac and so use SignCut Pro in combination with Adobe Illustrator but both of those are paid programs.
  7. 2 points
    Call Support? Now why would I want to do a thing like that? Nooooo! That's entirely too easy. I would much rather crack a beer, have a seat, and bother the REAL people! Just wanted to update anyone following. I managed to get this rig running, finally. And I gotta tell ya... It helps so much TO INSTALL THE CORRECT CUTTER! That entire time... I had SC2 selected, NOT the Titan 2. After making the correct choice, the bells & whistles came alive. It was a Hallmark moment. No kidding. If any of you could have seen my behavior, prior to choosing wisely, you'd have grabbed popcorn & a fountain drink. Yeah... it was sad. Anyway... After a few test cuts, I noticed that the offset was too low (rounded, incomplete cuts). Of course, I headed straight for the calibration thingy. That's where I'm stuck now. That's where you fine peoples come in. I got to the part where the design shows up on the sign blank. Pretty sure it's a grid, with #'s & letters. Well, I hit CUT IT NOW. It starts cutting... then stops... and just sits there. Your thoughts?
  8. 2 points
    You should be peeling the wax paper backing off the decal. it makes a huge difference. Lay decal tape down, peel the backing off. No mention which vinyl or tape you are using,
  9. 2 points
    I refer you back to post 5 in this thread from sunday . . . .
  10. 2 points
    No problems with a desktop with 8 cores and 64gb ram either
  11. 2 points
    First things first --- identify those fonts (2 different ones). Do not ever vectorize text. Horrible results. Ask them for a higher-resolution copy, maybe if you're lucky get an .eps version!!!
  12. 1 point
  13. 1 point
    I'm assuming you download the A_Series_driver? There are two exe files in that zip folder, A_Series_USB.exe and paraDriver0124.exe. Did you try running both to see what happens? Also, given the age of the A-series, the drivers might not work on anything newer than XP and you may need to setup a computer with XP or setup a virtual machine running XP. You might also try the CT/CA/CM/CB - USB to Serial Driver and see what it does.
  14. 1 point
    Just scanning through the manual, it appears the cutter is either connected through a parallel port or serial port. That would indicate that a special driver is not necessary and you should simply need a program that talks the correct language. That being said, the OS only would matter based on the software you want to use. Signblazer I believe will run just fine on windows 10. Assuming you have a PC with win 10 on it already I'd install SB and give it a try before bothering looking around for other computer options.
  15. 1 point
    If I may ... posts that are kept short, to the point, and detailed as possible, will expedite the issue trying to get resolved. That being said, as one of the many volunteers here, I always appreciate it when I know, in advance, what steps the the OP has already taken - because that will help to narrow down what hasn't been tried yet. A lot of us will typically start at the same point for suggestions, and then the answers will diversify depending on what some have had experience with. I value my time, tremendously. I can only imagine that other do as well. I get that you had a question, and thought it would be quick to get a response out of the forum, however, I could also simply ask, "how do i set proper blade depth?" While that answer is fairly quick, it's also posted in several places on the forum, and can be found if I took the time to search for it. With due diligence searching on the forum, or in a particular software's HELP section (and no, the caps do not mean I'm shouting), a lot of questions could be answered. For the majority of us who come to the forum to ask a questions, we have already trolled the forum and the HELP sections of whichever software that we're using, and many times, using other software programs before coming to post the questions here. We are also appreciative enough to want to stick around and help where we can. [I am not stating or implying that you are not]
  16. 1 point
  17. 1 point
    Yes. Yes I did. I'm on #3. I'm a cheap date. Sorry about that, Dak.
  18. 1 point
    Someone who uses SCALP will have to tell you how to set your design up to cut. I always used Flexi software with my Seiki. Never did like SCALP software. Just from looking at your design, you cut a square and triangle up in the right hand corner. That moves the word THE over to the left. Do some test cuts with the test feature on the vinyl cutter and get your blade depth correct.
  19. 1 point
  20. 1 point
    Hopefully, you are prefeeding enough vinyl tru the cutter to do the entire order. Vinyl should be slack laying behind the cutter. Never be pulling from the vinyl roll while cutting. Also make sure the pinch rollers are an equal distance from the vinyl edge. I use a tape measure to measure the distance. Vinyl will feed straight that way. I use about 1 inch from the vinyl edge.
  21. 1 point
    Thank you for updating your post, and letting us know how you resolved your issue. There will be a good chance that someone will need this information in the future. On a slight tangent, did you try to save your file as an .eps out of inkscape? I'm curious to know if VM would have done the same thing. I'm guessing it might have, since you seem to have isolated it to bend a node issue. (just can't help being curious though )
  22. 1 point
    Exactly, just looking for a software that could do this.
  23. 1 point
    every professional I know uses paper tape - lots of hobbyist use clear. anyone that has tried applying clear to something like a larger back window with a compound curve know that clear will not conform to the curves like paper will
  24. 1 point
    I figure if we don't know what software is being used - while waiting on the answer we might as well work on the correct terminology -I think cricut started the incorrect use of die cutting - and like the 1/2 credit card trick is wrong and just won't die.
  25. 1 point
    I put something like that out there, but figured a non helping answer might get me in trouble. so I changed it. LOL But I am glad you posted it.