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Showing content with the highest reputation since 09/18/2019 in all areas

  1. 5 points
    Yeah, cutters are not like other electronics where a new/upgrade model comes out every year. There have been guys on the forums using the same cutter for decades.
  2. 5 points
    This ain't rocket science to create a similar design! Where's peoples' graphics skills? How come if humans are in contact with advanced alien civilization we have gotten dumber?!!!
  3. 4 points
    Yes, my cutter is 11 years old and I am still using it on an XP laptop. I have never had a problem with my cutter in 11 years.
  4. 3 points
    need pictures and info on which machine you are using and pictures so we can see what you are talking about - I am betting you are using a plotter and not a printer . . . FYI your post as a GUEST will not automatically appear anymore we are working toward how we used to be with only members being able to post - I approved this one for this time it only takes a moment to register to be a member with no solicitations or commitments
  5. 3 points
    Here is a full Tail-Pack. FreeTailPack.pdf
  6. 3 points
    The PrismCut is packaged with a 15" x 15" carrier sheet, but we sell larger carrier sheets that will work with the PrismCut if you need more room to work with. There aren't any hard limitations coded into the PrismCut that would prevent you from etching something anywhere the blade can reach, but practicality may be more of a factor here than it would be with Oracal 651. I expect that we will have more information about etching soon.
  7. 3 points
    I have a niche' that works well for me. That's all I am saying.
  8. 3 points
    They do, $190, for a 24"x10 yard roll. Not a bad price really. The price for reflective from anyone is going to be high, just the way it is. It's a specialized vinyl, not as easy to make, and not as much demand for it as normal vinyl. It does look good though.
  9. 3 points
    I generally take a peek at where I plan to buy said vinyl, decide my minimum order and shipping and then know my actual cost. I divide that up into a unit rate. More times than not I charge for the whole piece whether it is a yard or 5 or whatever and any left over stuff I sell off later for pure profit. If it's etch vinyl for instance I consider it a specialty vinyl order and list it that way on the invoice.
  10. 3 points
    bet it still isn't as strong as that stuff they print decals for teflon pans on - seriously what is that stuff? and why lol
  11. 2 points
    I have Signblazer downloaded on several different computers, never a problem. I don't cut with it, only use it to help people sometimes. I use Google, when you click on the the link, it does not open a page, it starts downloading right away, in my left lower corner,
  12. 2 points
    That is a relatively simple design and it would be a good one to practice redrawing by hand rather than an auto trace. Text especially rarely traces well and you can always get a much better result by finding the font and recreating.
  13. 2 points
    not than likely thousands of nodes - look closely at the nodes in the design.
  14. 2 points
    What are your plans to design? If you have no other vector programs you might try Inkscape (free) and if so SignCut will cut it's native SVG file as well altho the size may need checked I had some svg files come through mis-sized
  15. 2 points
    Any way you can screen shot a view of the computer screen it might help. I use Pro 1 myself so I'm pretty knowledgeable in SignCut. I am attaching a small left chest logo that should load and cut without issues. It's in Adobe v8 which is SIgnCut's favorite format and it's going to be reversed because its for HTV but for what you are doing that won't matter. It should be exactly 4 inches or 101.6 mm wide. If it's not then you need to calibrate your SignCut program. A note about workflow, it's best to design the work in the size you want it rather than resize them on the fly. Over the long haul you will find yourself needing to do additional work and trying to remember the specifics of what size you made things months or even days earlier becomes impossible. I save my files off with specific names that help me know which ones to choose without having to open them and check. I this case it's a stacked LC file meaning it's multiple color for a Left Chest and that also tells me it's reversed for HTV. If it was a 4 inch decal I would have called it 4in rather than LC Ashcraft stacked LC.ai
  16. 2 points
  17. 2 points
    how many times has someone tried signblazer that has not been updated in 8+ years and it fixed a problem caused by scalp - - - putting pro on the end of scal was a genius marketing tool but very misleading IMHO
  18. 2 points
    I will definately try the Port shirts next time.....but, I use Gildan mostly because I can always run to the Hobby stores to get "a few more" when my customers miscount or under count their needs.
  19. 2 points
    So after a full week of testing. I have upgraded to Illustrator Creative Cloud and started Using Sign Cut Pro 2. Sign Cut suggested adding a little overcut in the settings on the graphtec and I can say it has been incredibly better on cuts. Very crazy. I don't have a clue where the problem really is.
  20. 2 points
    The box is 6" w x 24" .on 4 sides, cut 1 side off.
  21. 2 points
    The ARMS system while sounding great is not something very many people utilize. I have a $3500 cutter and have only ever used mine two or three times just to see how it functioned. If you don't have a printer too then it's sort of a moot option. Some print on t-shirt transfer paper and contour cut those which is a potential. Printing on real vinyl requires an expensive printer. My journey started out with a budget cutter called a P-Cut which was probably similar to the SC2 or maybe the Laser point you are looking at (minus the ARMS) It was a stepper motor machine and made for entry level home and hobby. The L3 is similar and a great choice if you want to get your toes wet and see what happens. The Titans are a budget minded commercial venture that are trying to hit the gap between the lower budget starter cutters and the high end name brand machines. They seems to do pretty good overall and those with the Servo motors are going to run smooth and quiet. Tracking is still considerably less accurate than the name brand cutters though. The max cutting length according to the specs on the L3 is 180 inches and 300 inches on the Titan 2. When you go to the most chosen options like the Graphtec, Summa or Roland they don't even give it in inches because it's like 50 meters or whatever the longest roll is. The cost is considerably more for a name brand cutter but so is the build quality and reliability. I did the toes wet thing and learned a LOT before I decided to spend more cash on a better unit. I am grateful for the experience that I would NOT have gained had I went the expensive route right off. Budget cutters are much more finicky and require "fine tuning" to get good cuts. This is painful to experience but great training. If budget is not a concern and you can swing a CE6000-60 you would likely never need to do anything else. They will last you for years. The Titan market is middle ground and is better than the bottom but is the cost worth the difference? Maybe. The T2 is built pretty tough and designed with a business or starer business in mind rather than just a weekend warrior. Just remember that servos are better but there are also grades of quality within the servo realm too. Servos are pretty much like a variable speed without limitations to minimum movements. I think the Copam that Dakota mentioned had commercial grade stepper motors that were a tighter steps and built to last a long time. Just avoid the very bottom MH. It's sort of the doorbuster black friday cutter and they sell a bunch of them but they are very problematic and frustrate a lot of people.
  22. 2 points
    It WILL matter a little because if you turn on the software control you'll have to be sure the speed and force are correct. If you have those on the control panel I guarantee you have a way to zero out. It may be named differently but it's there. My budget computer I think I had to put in in offline mode to get to the right options. You should also be able to pre-feed your vinyl back and forth and move your cutter head over if you need to. When done getting it all set right you would zero out. Good luck and it would be great if you took the time to report back. You'd be surprised how often people don't and future searches just find a thread with questions and no final solution.
  23. 2 points
    You have to purchase and activate the software. As long as the software is in demo mode it will cut lines thru the design.
  24. 2 points
    I use mac and Illustrator and interface with the cutter using SignCut Pro 1. They have Pro 2 out now too but since I do my designs on AI the added parts of Pro 2 are not something I need. There have been many that use the Sure Cuts A Lot Pro (SCALP) mentioned above. Just know that it is not the greatest program especially if trying to design in it. If you have access to AI and plan to continue to use it then that won't be an issue and you can probably get by with SCALP as a strictly cutting utility to talk to your cutter. If you go the SignCut route it costs money after the free trial. The free trial may only be available on Pro 2 now that it's out but it's still worth a try after you get your cutter and get it up and running for comparison. I ended up buying the lifetime dongle so I don't have to pay rent but they cost as much as your cutter will so you may need to stick to SCALP until you get some revenue coming in. Just know that there are mac options out there for the long run either way.
  25. 2 points
    thankfully, no canoe club has done that here ... and hopefully won't.