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  1. 4 points
    Here is a little info for you from Roland. The general idea from the manufacturer is that the 60deg is specifically designed to give you a taller cutting profile for thicker material. That may be the thought process with them but most have found that the sharper angle seems to cut a little cleaner on detailed work. I have not seen this to make a difference, at least with high end blades. I run a Summa which uses a 36deg standard blade and have cut as small with the standard as with any other blade so who really knows. Summa's version of a thick material blade is at 55 deg and a 60 also but they are on a much thicker round stock using a completely different blade holder. The reason they do this is it give substantially more cutting area for thickness being BOTH steeper as well as thicker but the blade offset jumps from around .35 mm to .90mm and there was no noticeable advantage to the fine detailed cutting. I also tried out several CC Blades to see how they compared and offer a 45deg and a 60 deg that are both for the standard blade holder for my machine. I count tell a difference other than the tip is, as mentioned, a bit more fragile on a 60. CC blades compared to Summa blades are equal and I suspect the same is likely true for Graphtec and other high end cutters. Summa stock blades are actually cheaper and last a little longer probably due to the 36deg angle that may produce a little tougher tip. A CC blade compared to a cheap blade is like a new machine and if it was not mentioned earlier TURN YOUR PRESSURE DOWN BY ABOUT 1/2 or you may break your new tip by cutting so far through your vinyl and into the cutting strip. My very first CC blade was on my old P-Cut and yes it really does make a massive difference. These are all just my observations and thought I'd share them. Your mileage may vary. ra_cutter blade knowledge.pdf
  2. 3 points
    Well I found a spot for all my stuff. I can store my extra blades, squeegee, Exacto knife, pick, and tape measure in the bin I screwed to the cross member and upright. Then I drilled some holes in the cross member to hold up to four carriage holders, a pen holder, and a scissors. I also mounted a tape dispenser on the other side just in case.
  3. 3 points
    You can loosen the pinch rollers, but more often then not people that do that cause more problems than they solve. The marks should work themselves out when you apply. If not, maybe hit it with a little heat to work them out after applying.
  4. 3 points
    You have to ask permission. You cannot recreate any ones design without permission PERIOD. Actually Homeland Security, has showed up at many flea markets, convenience stores, tables at sports games etc. It is considered counterfeiting now. Go look online. These companies are fed up with the theft of their logos. People making money off their name. They will search online sites, They have lawyers on the payroll, that is all they do. It's against the law to speed also, but people do and they get caught, given enough time. Go do searches online, You will see busts and a lot of them. A few on here got caught at flea markets. And they will tell you it's not worth it!!!
  5. 3 points
    All I'm pointing out is you may end up in litigation. Not my problem if you continue to do it as long as you don't upload copyright protected work onto the forum. Just know that Monster, Disney, Harley and many of the other big names in the world pay many thousands of dollars a year to employ people who actively search out violators and then they prosecute them. Not saying you will get caught but I wouldn't recommend taking chances. I wholeheartedly suggest contacting Monster and ask them if you can run their logo. They may say you're good. I have built logo's for people who were sponsored by various companies. They almost without exception have came with instructions on size, placement and required free space around them from other logo's, color options etc... Very specific use rules.
  6. 3 points
    The text on my logo for t-shirts is 7mm. I took the advice offered here and used one of the cheap 60* blades I bought on Amazon. That, coupled with the fact my 30* blade was starting to get dull after about 100yds of vinyl cut...made for an AMAZING cut! I had the hardest time finding the lines to weed without my loupes. Everything pulled out perfectly and the little 7mm letters were perfect. I can't imagine a clean-cut blade! Thank you all again for your experience and continued great advice. I am now over 100 shirts, and 50+ transfer decals in (including back window marketing), and I feel like I am really starting to find my groove the business, and I am starting to learn the quirks of this Titan3 and SCAL4. I've grown to like it now...(Even though I do the difficult stuff in AI).
  7. 3 points
    Cut a little off the pen.
  8. 3 points
    As for tracing, I'd find the state outline, they're pretty easy to find, and then manually trace the letters, they're all straight lines so it shouldn't be that hard.
  9. 3 points
    If you live in a state where most people tint their windows, I'd just cut the red and white. OBC-Red.eps OBC-Black.eps OBC-White.eps
  10. 3 points
    For high detailed stuff you probably want to switch to a 60 degree blade.
  11. 3 points
    Not sure what program you are using. In a nutshell you would draw a thin rectangle long enough to create the bridge you are wanting. Place it where you want it and then do a Minus front operation. Your program will probably call that something different like a punch out. Essentially you want to chop some spots and allow connectors. See Illustration
  12. 2 points
    Problem solved! Scott, sell your stuff to Julian! Yah ... printer in the bedroom ... no-go. Hahaha. You can get some reclaimed quality time and floor space
  13. 2 points
    This is a sign I created for a friends Small Engine Repair business.
  14. 2 points
    You see some guys that have mad knife skills. That can take a knife in hand, swish it faster than the eye can follow and make a perfect cut. They do amazing things with window tint. I am not one of those guys. I mention it because laying down vinyl dry with out bubbles is a like mad skill. I still get bubbles sometimes, but not nearly as many as when I first started. I've seen others that are near flawless. It is hard to define as one thing. You just become aware of when a bubble is going to hit. Some of it is your squeegee technique. Many of those bubbles in your picture I suspect will air out and flatten given a day or two. If you have a huge bubble, poke it with a needle and press it down to get the air out. But yes, wet install can reduce bubbles, or allow you to chase them out with a squeegee easier. But I hate wet installs. You will get better with each one you do.
  15. 2 points
    hmmm?? @Wildgoose not sure I knew u was a crawler. 40s and tons.... now we talkn. jeep motor or v8 swap? I build them from mild to wild. my new crawler is sitting in pieces at my barn. linked yj frame, don't rem if its a cj or yj tub, but a cj hood and grille. a set of cucv tons and an old school 4 bolt main sbc hoping it cranks out over 450hp, may end up with an ls 6.0 by the time it gets built. prob run a set of 42-43 stickies. whats funny is the rig ive been wheeling until I moved south and these health issues started kicking my azz is a 94-95 yj hp 44, 9" rear chromos and locked, sitting on 37s pushed by the mighty 4 banger. should c some of the big boys faces when I raise the hood after wheeling with them all day. lol
  16. 2 points
    Just always remember that the forum is just a bunch of users trying to help out. With the exception of a few actual tech helps that are on occasionally (most common is the Vinyl Master guys). The rest of us are just regular end users like you guys perhaps with a little more experience in some areas but not always. Even us Mod's are voluntary and try to help out in our spare time with varying success.
  17. 2 points
    @Scratchthejeepguy awesome idea. I think its awesome for a newbie to come up with some cool ideas like this. I too r a "newbie" don't rem if ive had anything to add or not yet. I rem what a big deal it was to me when I had the answers for the guy that has took me under his wing and taught me a lot, plus spent a lot of time off the forum working with me teaching me this biz. again that's what I feel like a forum is for. and again sorry if I derailed your post yea man, been lying low I guess. . Ive had a few issues here, most with the actual company , 2 were warranty/service issues, a couple with ordering/shipment. then just a few on here. I tried to get a resolution with the co. but no luck. the issues on here ive debated about posting something up. but I'm not 1 to stir a huge forum mess where u get all types of keyboard warriors , and opinions fired up n to a huge mess. but it has caused me to lose interest. the bad is I feel this is the best forum for what we do, especially the best for others helping out others whatever way they can. def a lot of knowledge on here. Ive looked up and joined prob most of the vinyl and t shirt forums out there on the web.
  18. 2 points
    Plasma tables are fun. A LOT more messy than a vinyl cutter, that's for sure! The reason I got the vinyl cutter was because I had customers want me to do very fine lettering or details on metal signs that the plasma cutter just couldn't do. I'm excited to make some cool stuff with it! As far as Jeeps... I've had over 30 open top Jeeps in my life, currently have 9. Mostly Willys. 1 MB 3 CJ2A 2 CJ3A 1 CJ5 1 CJ7 1TJ
  19. 2 points
    Most companies in the RC business will allow you to use their logos. I have gotten permission from various companies to copy and use many various logos. All it takes is an Email to them to ask if you can use them. I print out their reply and save it in my file folders as proof that they gave me permission.
  20. 2 points
    On my desk that i built for all my Vinyl needs I have a small 3 drawer thing that sits on the desk the top drawer holds my Zacto knives and my squeegees and the 2nd drawer has my pen for the SC2 and my Scissors in it. My vinyl is on the PVC stand I built on the right of the table and the Transfer tape is on the end of the table also, mounted it with PVC and works great just grab the end and pull it however long i need. this set up has worked well for me since Valentines day.. I also have LED light stripe i put under my cutter cause its just to dark hard to see where to cut the vinyl when its on the roll i don't have a picture. not sure how Primal did his I'm into Radio control and use LEDS on my planes to fly at night. so just used a stripe that would go the whole width of the machine and i power it with one of my 3 cell lipos for one of my airplanes. My cutter is on the other wall on other side of the room so having any tools hooked to it wouldn't work for me but all depends on how you have your stuff set up.
  21. 2 points
    You might also consider the potential financial obligations that may come from copyright and trademark infringement.
  22. 2 points
    That's a hard color to match. I do a lot of pinstriping and that's a perfect match for a 3M pinstripe 085 Light Gold Metallic but 3M doesn't make vinyl rolls in that color anymore. I've looked at pretty much every vinyl manufacturer for vinyl to match that stripe and the best I've found is Avery Supercast 900 Metallic 217 Light Gold and Sharpline 044 Light Gold Metallic. The Avery looks perfect but if you put it on top of the Arizona Beige, it has a slightly different shine to it. It should be fine if you're putting it on the white part of the truck. I think Sharpline may be a better match but I've never used it, I just have it on my own color match list as a backup.
  23. 2 points
    I have an original LP, and was initially using the 45 that shipped with it. Intricate stuff was a little tough to do, but after switching it out to a 60 Clean Cut (about a year or two in), it made a huge difference. It definitely cleaned it up a bit, and then all that I was left was with the limitations of my machine. I still have that original Clean Cut blade in my LP, and it's still doing a job great! I've recently added a Graphtec to the lineup and immediately put in a 60 Clean Cut blade from the get go. Why bother going stock, when I know that I will be changing it out to Clean Cut anyway. I ordered the blades immediately after ordering my machine, and got them a whole lot faster than the machine too!
  24. 2 points
    Recently there was a thread where we discussed the merits of different blades. I cut the same image with a standard 45 and then with a Clean Cut 60...HUGE difference. I'll never go back. http://forum.uscutter.com/index.php?/topic/54960-small-lettering/&
  25. 2 points
    I can't speak for anyone else, but my experience with USC has been nothing but positive. I bought my first cutter from USC via eBay. I would have not hesitated to buy my second cutter from them, had I not been able to find a local company near me that could give me a huge price break on the shipping. I've only needed to speak with their support team once or twice, and both times they were very responsive, and even accommodated the fact that I'm basically in a time zone all on my own, and made a point to schedule a call back with me. Luckily for me, my cutter has been virtually flawless and has performed well for me for close to 12 years. Buy the best cutter that you budget will allow and I think you will be a happy camper - with the machine, with support, and the unofficial support of the forum.
  26. 2 points
    I have been using them for over 10 years - any business that sells thousands of plotters will have a few unhappy campers and they are usually the ones to post more. other companies have tried to run forums to allow users to help each other out all hours of the night and weekends when support isn't around. to my knowledge no other ones are anywhere near this big and most have closed the forums so no after hours support. read all the post from the thousands of users on here and make your own decision - for me I have bought a few plotters from uscutter over the years as I upgraded
  27. 2 points
    Essentially a 60 will work for everything, only "danger" is that the tip is smaller so it's easier to break it, but so long as you have the depth and pressure set correctly that shouldn't happen.
  28. 2 points
    Shameless plug but I finally set up a selling platform. I'm on etsy. I'm adding new listings everyday. Lets see where this goes. https://www.etsy.com/shop/GoCCreations
  29. 2 points
    Yep, just on paper. I will throw this out there for you too. Using the knife you likely have some degree of overcut set to allow the knife to complete the cut in the corners. The pen tool overcut would properly be set to 0* or the corners will look a bit funky. I just live with the funkiness rather than switching back and too.
  30. 2 points
    Strangest job I have ever been asked to do. 310 1.5 inch circles! Got dizzy watching the cutter, but could not look away. Almost fell over weeding for the same reason.
  31. 2 points
    You're already leaps and bounds farther then when you started this thread! I definitely welcome a fellow AI user as well. You should be able to design in AI and just use SCALP as a cutting tool. There is a lengthy tutorial I put together in the AI section that may help you with some of the cutter specific settings.
  32. 2 points
    Another great idea Cal...just on paper? Never used the pen...but I noticed in SCAL how I can see the cuts now without colors in the way and I feel like I've come a little further with at least my logo... I got rid of the double cuts that were going through the vinyl. That was most of my issues...even though the blade was set what I feel is properly. I can use the holder on scrap, draw a circle and it only cuts through the vinyl layer. When I cut my logo now, it doesn't go through anything.
  33. 2 points
    Feeling like an idiot now. I am actually pretty good with AI...I've been using it since version 2...I didn't even THINK to design in there and import. Great helpful tips everyone...thank you! Scott
  34. 2 points
    Blade was set per instructions. Finally finished up 1 of an order of 12.
  35. 2 points
    There are user manuals on the UScutter website for any machine sold, plus other info. You only need the vinyl just past the cutting strip. Loose the word "printer," it is not a printer. I would not use WYSIWYG . Put the blade in the lower right hand corner and hit ORIGIN or what ever it is called on the Titan. I never use sheets for anything. Cut it off the roll. But a little trick, on sheets or scrap vinyl. Tape another piece of vinyl to it, on the bottom side. just so it has room for the pinch rollers at the end.. I do it all the time with scrap vinyl https://support.uscutter.com/support/solutions/folders/14000106614
  36. 2 points
    Here's a manual https://www.uscutter.com/static/PDFs/TitanSE_UserManual_Oct30_2017.pdf
  37. 2 points
    Yes, it is harder, I cut Avery Chrome, I have to up the force to be able to cut it clean on my Graphtec, which has plenty of force.. And yes, it will make the blades dull faster. If it doesn't cut clean, the chrome will tear as you try to weed it. Start with a new blade.
  38. 2 points
    1/4" = not a happy weeder, 1/8" = not going to bother at all. I won't even cut stuff that tiny for myself, much less for someone else That being said - the more precise the cuts, the easier to weed - provided you don't go blind in the process.
  39. 2 points
    you are reaching the limit of almost all cutters at 1/8" - there just isn't enough adhesive left trying to grip the slippery paper it is mounted on. for 1/8" everything has to be perfect - you might try cleaning your place and end of the holder with some alcohol to see if that helps but you are reaching the limits of cut vinyl that small
  40. 2 points
    I did a test on my first few shirts a few days ago. I was throwing them into any laundry that the wife was doing. I had them in with jeans, socks, , and just about anything. After 20 something washes they still looked just fine. I have a few that I sold that people are wearing running almost every other day for the past week and wash them every time in the florida heat and they have not complained about them at all when i did a follow up with them after the half marathon they did.
  41. 2 points
    Create a circle the size you need... Type the needed Text in your Desired Typeface and enlarge to fit comfortably over your Circle. Select your Text then Distortions>Globe. Convert Text to Paths (Curves). Use Node Edit Tools to Nudge Text into Circular Shape. Punch & Trim Tools may also be helpful in Shaping Text.
  42. 1 point
    For me, speed and force will be determined by design, vinyl type, and vinyl color.
  43. 1 point
    I used to use strong magnets to hold the teflon on the top platen - then got the hotronix with the teflon covers and love it. if you do sublimation make sure you get some butcher paper to change between presses as the ink outgasses and attaches to anything near by including teflon and then re sublimates on a later press
  44. 1 point
    You are wise! But nobody is doing what I am doing. I have a very unique product that has tested well in other areas and most of the hundreds of customers I have end up using my products for their phone anyway... after my millions I’ll share with ya
  45. 1 point
    Yes, it is true. use paper tape for wet application.
  46. 1 point
    Well, you working with all the Graphtecs is nice, but a stepper motor will never cut as sharp and clean as a Graphtec. A Titan servo will get you closer. Some can get some nice cuts, with a lot of fine tuning, but still night and day stepper vs servo. And you would know the great fine details that a Graphtec can cut over even a Roland. But on another note, buy the best that you can afford.
  47. 1 point
    Slice&Dice, you're right, "smooth" probably wasn't the right word to use. It has the long lines from the ribs, but the surface has no other texture so the vinyl adheres really well. From 5 feet away it you don't really notice the corrugations unless you're looking for it.
  48. 1 point
    I would be very careful with regards to the trademark. Copyright and Trademark are two separate things. I agree that if you have the ability to create something for your own use you can do that but as soon as you start giving it away you are crossing a line. Don't know if that violates a copyright protection but in Trademark law that is called diluting the market. If your friend has some sort of affiliation with Monster or a sponsorship type thing then they can get approval to use the log. Maybe even get official decals. Otherwise you are putting yourself at risk of some blowback. I realize this is RC craft and probably emulating a full sized plane or something but from a marketing standpoint Monster has a lot of money tied up in the actual plane and would have claim on all sorts of side action such as matchbox cars and production RC planes. Not saying anyone actually makes an actual kit but they MAY. I think I would get something indemnifying you at the very least, like a signed realize form that the end user is authorized to commission the work. It may not save you from losing your house but....
  49. 1 point
    Don't know what to tell you then. But if you go thru the old posts back at that time for the Laserpointer,, they were Creation. UScutter does not make vinyl cutters, they only sell them. We had a storm here last night, The first thing that gets unplugged is my vinyl cutter, every time I hear thunder or lightening. TV is next. I don't care if it is on a surge protector. They still get unplugged.
  50. 1 point
    its a big order and if you need it done in a few days its really a big day but my local place i get vinyl at does all the baseball shirts for the school. i think she said 100 shirts or something like that she gets her daughter and a few friends to come in and help weed so she can get them done in a timely manner. i might freak out if i ever get a order that big but it is doable im sure. My largest so far is 15 front and back. I did 8 at one time and had to get more HTV. I knew i would need more and was waiting for payment on other half. I paid for all shirts with the 1st half of the money.