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  1. 5 points
    Looking at your first picture, I believe you are cutting too deep and cutting into the backing paper. Reset your blade length as per MZ SKEETER'S instructions and reduce your pressure settings. You should barely be making an indentation on the backing paper with your blade.
  2. 4 points
    comments should be about the problem - not personality conflicts. if it continues the thread will be locked Dirt fisherman - keep in mind the people on here helping volunteer their time (many for several years) when it appears someone is not even trying to find answers themselves they do get frustrated and someone with 19 years of experience they might be expecting them to have a solid knowledge of basic functions - - Most of these people read EVERY post on here trying to help - so long winded replies calling everyone condescending puts people in a defensive mode instead of a helpful mode - lets keep the questions and answers condensed without getting personal.
  3. 3 points
    titan3 would be the next step up but if you wait and save just about 300 more you can get the graphtec ce6000-60 - top notch then and comes with free graphtec pro studio software which is private branded flexi pro that you would spend $2000 for just that software without a cutter . . . . IMHO
  4. 3 points
    Yes, Dakota, that is how the 'Drop Shadow' function in Vm works. As far as not having the 2 layers over top of one another; Ungroup the 2 layers (grouped by Default when Created with the Drop Shadow Module) And Punch them out. (Not sure if the Cut Version has all these Features.
  5. 3 points
    The old timers here, are here to help. We do not know every program out there. we use what we use. Combined, we do know every program for design and cutting. In my opinion, grab a beer and click on help is a fantastic idea. There is more in that click than you can get waiting for help from the forum. In my humble opinion.
  6. 2 points
    i like the concept of not overlapping when I do 2+ colors, but in reality, my eyes and hands simply aren't steady enough for a level of accuracy if the color is supposed to touch one another, especially on a graphic as long as yours. I would guarantee have negative space or in inadvertent overlapping someplace along that graphic. good luck with that, and take a pic when you're done so we can see it installed.
  7. 2 points
    Jenna Sue (Regular) Find my font best $50 you will ever spend
  8. 2 points
    Angie I saw that machine on CL and wondered if they got it sold. I am the mod mentioned and actually here in your area and run a newer Summa. That machine is pretty old but as long as it's been taken care of should be a good option especially at what you paid for it. I recommend trying out the free Signblazer if you're on a super tight budget and don't already have design skills. I run a mac and so use SignCut Pro in combination with Adobe Illustrator but both of those are paid programs.
  9. 2 points
    Call Support? Now why would I want to do a thing like that? Nooooo! That's entirely too easy. I would much rather crack a beer, have a seat, and bother the REAL people! Just wanted to update anyone following. I managed to get this rig running, finally. And I gotta tell ya... It helps so much TO INSTALL THE CORRECT CUTTER! That entire time... I had SC2 selected, NOT the Titan 2. After making the correct choice, the bells & whistles came alive. It was a Hallmark moment. No kidding. If any of you could have seen my behavior, prior to choosing wisely, you'd have grabbed popcorn & a fountain drink. Yeah... it was sad. Anyway... After a few test cuts, I noticed that the offset was too low (rounded, incomplete cuts). Of course, I headed straight for the calibration thingy. That's where I'm stuck now. That's where you fine peoples come in. I got to the part where the design shows up on the sign blank. Pretty sure it's a grid, with #'s & letters. Well, I hit CUT IT NOW. It starts cutting... then stops... and just sits there. Your thoughts?
  10. 2 points
    You should be peeling the wax paper backing off the decal. it makes a huge difference. Lay decal tape down, peel the backing off. No mention which vinyl or tape you are using,
  11. 2 points
    I refer you back to post 5 in this thread from sunday . . . .
  12. 2 points
    No problems with a desktop with 8 cores and 64gb ram either
  13. 2 points
    First things first --- identify those fonts (2 different ones). Do not ever vectorize text. Horrible results. Ask them for a higher-resolution copy, maybe if you're lucky get an .eps version!!!
  14. 1 point
    Setting numbers are irrelevant. But there is more precision in the higher end cutters. Roland, Graphtec and Summa. Each vinyl cutter is different even the same model. Also vinyl can be a little different depending on color and lot. There are no set in stone setting numbers for vinyl cutters. It is all trial and error for what works with your cutter and supplies to make a cut to your liking. That is why you should check your blade and force on the TEST cut feature of your vinyl cutter. As well as checking your blade offset. Roland style blades require you to set the blade offset. Graphtec blade offset is normally always ZERO.
  15. 1 point
    I am betting they just made a second layer in gray and adjusted it upward slightly - quick and easy
  16. 1 point
    Just scanning through the manual, it appears the cutter is either connected through a parallel port or serial port. That would indicate that a special driver is not necessary and you should simply need a program that talks the correct language. That being said, the OS only would matter based on the software you want to use. Signblazer I believe will run just fine on windows 10. Assuming you have a PC with win 10 on it already I'd install SB and give it a try before bothering looking around for other computer options.
  17. 1 point
    I also agree that the cutter is cutting too. The blade should just be making an impression on the backing paper. Another thing that will cause the vinyl to stay on the backing paper is it's age. If the vinyl is old it tends to be a little harder to get it off of the backing paper.
  18. 1 point
  19. 1 point
    VM 4.0 has an issue with SVG files, they don't always import correctly. It's best to export files from your design software as eps then import that to VM. The VM people are aware of the SVG issue and have been looking into it.
  20. 1 point
    a picture of the not-so-sharp edges would be helpful. if the vinyl is on a roll - when you feed the vinyl, do you make sure that there is enough slack so the machine isn't pulling it off the tension of the roll? are your pinch rollers placed equally spaced about an 1" from the edge of the vinyl? If you're trying to cut something detailed and intricate, have you tried slowing down the speed?
  21. 1 point
    Staying in Kaanapali for a few days, spending most of our trip in Oahu. Haven't been outer island in a few years and probably like Maui the best.
  22. 1 point
    Weld that area first - if using graphtec pro studio
  23. 1 point
    I run my Graphtecs on old 2006 Toshiba laptop with Windows XP. I never have problems. The last couple I picked up were less than $100 with Free ship. I also picked up a couple Toshiba with Windows 7, not much more than $100. Keep checking online, plenty for sale. I have spare laptops all set up for my Graphtec, with all the designs loaded. Just in case a computer fails. I can just put another PC right and go again. You will learn , you need to keep spares of most things, if your going to run a serious business. I have never been down in 13 years. For this software, you need at least Windows 7, I think. I picked up a cheap 17" Toshiba windows 7 and installed Windows 10 on it that i got for cheap.
  24. 1 point
    I put something like that out there, but figured a non helping answer might get me in trouble. so I changed it. LOL But I am glad you posted it.
  25. 1 point
    did not work. but gave me an idea. i added nodes in inkscape before i exported it to vinylmaster. that did the trick. vinylmaster is very sensitive to little nodes obviously