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Showing content with the highest reputation since 04/21/2019 in all areas

  1. 5 points
    Looking at your first picture, I believe you are cutting too deep and cutting into the backing paper. Reset your blade length as per MZ SKEETER'S instructions and reduce your pressure settings. You should barely be making an indentation on the backing paper with your blade.
  2. 4 points
    comments should be about the problem - not personality conflicts. if it continues the thread will be locked Dirt fisherman - keep in mind the people on here helping volunteer their time (many for several years) when it appears someone is not even trying to find answers themselves they do get frustrated and someone with 19 years of experience they might be expecting them to have a solid knowledge of basic functions - - Most of these people read EVERY post on here trying to help - so long winded replies calling everyone condescending puts people in a defensive mode instead of a helpful mode - lets keep the questions and answers condensed without getting personal.
  3. 3 points
    titan3 would be the next step up but if you wait and save just about 300 more you can get the graphtec ce6000-60 - top notch then and comes with free graphtec pro studio software which is private branded flexi pro that you would spend $2000 for just that software without a cutter . . . . IMHO
  4. 3 points
    Yes, Dakota, that is how the 'Drop Shadow' function in Vm works. As far as not having the 2 layers over top of one another; Ungroup the 2 layers (grouped by Default when Created with the Drop Shadow Module) And Punch them out. (Not sure if the Cut Version has all these Features.
  5. 3 points
    The old timers here, are here to help. We do not know every program out there. we use what we use. Combined, we do know every program for design and cutting. In my opinion, grab a beer and click on help is a fantastic idea. There is more in that click than you can get waiting for help from the forum. In my humble opinion.
  6. 2 points
    i like the concept of not overlapping when I do 2+ colors, but in reality, my eyes and hands simply aren't steady enough for a level of accuracy if the color is supposed to touch one another, especially on a graphic as long as yours. I would guarantee have negative space or in inadvertent overlapping someplace along that graphic. good luck with that, and take a pic when you're done so we can see it installed.
  7. 2 points
    Jenna Sue (Regular) Find my font best $50 you will ever spend
  8. 2 points
    Angie I saw that machine on CL and wondered if they got it sold. I am the mod mentioned and actually here in your area and run a newer Summa. That machine is pretty old but as long as it's been taken care of should be a good option especially at what you paid for it. I recommend trying out the free Signblazer if you're on a super tight budget and don't already have design skills. I run a mac and so use SignCut Pro in combination with Adobe Illustrator but both of those are paid programs.
  9. 2 points
    Call Support? Now why would I want to do a thing like that? Nooooo! That's entirely too easy. I would much rather crack a beer, have a seat, and bother the REAL people! Just wanted to update anyone following. I managed to get this rig running, finally. And I gotta tell ya... It helps so much TO INSTALL THE CORRECT CUTTER! That entire time... I had SC2 selected, NOT the Titan 2. After making the correct choice, the bells & whistles came alive. It was a Hallmark moment. No kidding. If any of you could have seen my behavior, prior to choosing wisely, you'd have grabbed popcorn & a fountain drink. Yeah... it was sad. Anyway... After a few test cuts, I noticed that the offset was too low (rounded, incomplete cuts). Of course, I headed straight for the calibration thingy. That's where I'm stuck now. That's where you fine peoples come in. I got to the part where the design shows up on the sign blank. Pretty sure it's a grid, with #'s & letters. Well, I hit CUT IT NOW. It starts cutting... then stops... and just sits there. Your thoughts?
  10. 2 points
    You should be peeling the wax paper backing off the decal. it makes a huge difference. Lay decal tape down, peel the backing off. No mention which vinyl or tape you are using,
  11. 2 points
    I refer you back to post 5 in this thread from sunday . . . .
  12. 2 points
    No problems with a desktop with 8 cores and 64gb ram either
  13. 2 points
    First things first --- identify those fonts (2 different ones). Do not ever vectorize text. Horrible results. Ask them for a higher-resolution copy, maybe if you're lucky get an .eps version!!!
  14. 1 point
    Ok Thanks found it. Jeff
  15. 1 point
    try going into the vinyl spooler section of vinylmaster and the second tab has an area to adjust offset - mine isn't clicked as a graphtec always uses 0 but other plotters typically people start at .25 and move it up or down in small increments until they get a sharp corner on their test cut from the plotter screen We usually don't get the opportunity to help someone that has been doing vinyl cutting for 24 years - they are usually the ones doing the teaching
  16. 1 point
    Then crack a beer and go to the top of the layout screen where HELP is. Plenty of answers and tutorials for helping with your software. Most any software has HELP and the guides for using the software. There is even a keyword search. Sounds like your wanting to change the blade offset. Search blade offset. There is a tutorial that tells you how to do that. PS. I just might be older or close to you.
  17. 1 point
    I run a Graphtec and I have never seen a reason to cut fast. Not sure what 200 equates to on "your" cutter. I always cut slow, I am usually cutting while answering questions on here.
  18. 1 point
    What do you get if you hit the test button on the cutter?
  19. 1 point
    a picture of the not-so-sharp edges would be helpful. if the vinyl is on a roll - when you feed the vinyl, do you make sure that there is enough slack so the machine isn't pulling it off the tension of the roll? are your pinch rollers placed equally spaced about an 1" from the edge of the vinyl? If you're trying to cut something detailed and intricate, have you tried slowing down the speed?
  20. 1 point
    Thanks so much for all the help!!
  21. 1 point
    I was just using the reflective as an example. It being constructed the way it is, it has a tendency to delaminate if you do it wrong, which makes it easy to see that you're doing something wrong. I learned the right way through a few very expensive lessons. No matter what type of vinyl you are using, ALWAYS remove the backing paper from the vinyl & transfer tape. Never try to "lift the vinyl" from the backing paper. It may seem like two ways of saying the same thing, but it isn't. Peeling the backing paper back over the top of itself and sliding it off is the correct way to do it. Someone on here once gave a great description and I wish I could find it. Let me see if I can do it justice... A. The adhesive on the vinyl has to be strong enough to permanently stick to the final surface (rear window, wall, bumper, mug, etc.). B. The adhesive on the vinyl has to be week enough to release from the backing paper. To help this, the backing paper has a slightly waxy finish. This bond is also designed to release when the angle of force is greater than 90 degrees, so pulling the backing paper back over the top of itself goes way past 90 degrees. Simply put, you can't pull the two slices of bread apart on a grilled cheese sandwich because all of that gooey cheese across both surfaces is fighting against you. But if you grab one corner and peel it back you are only fighting the thin line where it's trying to separate. C. The transfer tape adhesive must be weaker than the bond between the vinyl and the final surface (bond A). If not, then you'd never get the vinyl to release from the transfer tape. D. The transfer tape adhesive must be stronger than the bond between the vinyl and the backing paper (bond B ) Logic says that the transfer tape can't be both weaker than and stronger than at the same time. Two things allow this: 1) The substrates. The adhesive has to stick better to the final surface than it does the backing paper, hence the waxy surface. 2) The removal force. Bonds A & C are almost always fighting forces applied to the vinyl at 90 degrees or less which is where they are the strongest. Bonds B & D are broken at an angle greater than 90. . . by folding the backing paper back over itself and that's where the bond is weakest. But if you try to break Bonds B & D by pulling up the transfer tape and vinyl you aren't passing 90% and you're fighting the strongest bond.
  22. 1 point
    lol = worked corrections for 27.5 years - personal info is pretty well guarded and hard to find
  23. 1 point
    Will damn Dakotagrafx just give me your home number you have all the info worked perfect. Thanks again!!
  24. 1 point
    on the dog pictures do you have permission from HAMMER & STAIN ROCKVILLE to reproduce their work?
  25. 1 point
    Make you wish you had a catch basket when it unwinds to whole roll on the floor and static loads it up with all the dust and crumbs you should have swept up yesterday... Ask me how I know.