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  2. So here is my dilema. I been pushing decals off facebook and its been working. slowly growing and i enjoy it. my end goal is to save for a large printer for vinyl wrapping cars. however this seems like a very good buisness oppratunity to do t-shirts and continue to do decals in the process and let my friend run that part of the buisness as i focus on my dream which is the car side of it. so before i take the plung into t-shirts, i am just curious on what to look into for a heat press. are the combos good? i was looking at something like https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073QPY2W8?th=1 to get started. but im not 100% how they do. i also found a few on craigslist that are aournd 150-200$. I still have to read up on what all can be used. i know HVT for basic prints which i will proably use for now. Any information i will glady take and thanks in advance!
  3. Today
  4. That is too bad, it was a good looking job. I agree with Jburns regarding the repaint for the van. Reading your first post over I am guessing the customer isn't going to do that, in fact he may blame you for the paint peeling off. Good luck getting this situation resolved, Cal
  5. Yesterday
  6. Thank you
  7. http://www.dafont.com/search.php?q=Gemina+Expanded+(Expanded)
  8. no problem bud.
  9. I'm building it based on that suggestion from the other forum. It'll take some time, but hey it's a government job so I have time lol. I think I need to get them to order some Oracle to try instead of this IJ35C we've used forever. Thanks.
  10. that may be an altered version of this but I also dont know what this is lol
  11. oh ok... let me know if you find your answer bud. Ill keep helping as much as possible .
  12. Thanks a lot. I was actually on that post on signs101 reading it when you posted. I'm going to try to tweak it like he did and see. Yeah the icc profile sites you sent are what I've been checking every week, but they never put one out. Thanks.
  13. updated previous post..
  14. let me know if you cant read this on this other forum im part of.many people complaining about the 3M IJ35C. one person said Re-Linearization should be all you need to do .. here is the post --- https://signs101.com/threads/icc-profile-for-3m-ij35-10-flexi-l25500.110050/ another place, seems possible the answer? -- http://profiles.saicloud.com/ not sure if this is any help since i dont do print or have knowledge in this area..Just trying to help you as much as possible http://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/graphics-signage-us/resources/color-profiles/ http://www.wideformatonline.com/news/wide-format-news/3417-3m-updates-its-icc-profiles.html https://3m.color-base.com/
  15. Does anyone know this font?
  16. It's weird my print has been fine for years. All of a sudden it's junk. Was told it's the profile, but of course nobody has a profile out there for 3M IJ35C for Flexi. Just a rant.
  17. Maybe try 2 passes instead of just 1 pass.
  18. Who is providing the shirts? If they are buying the shirts from me and I'm making a profit on the shirts then I would cut alittle slack on the labor. Also keep in mind folding and organizing time.
  19. new cleancut brand blade - he actually has one made just for reflective material - with his normal blades I use about 40 percent less force than other blades
  20. I'm struggling with cutting this V98 Fluorescent lime. I'm using a Roland XC540 Cut pressure is 280 (printer max cut pressure is 300), speed 10, and I have my blade adjusted so it's sticking ALL THE WAY OUT! I'm STILL NOT cutting through this stuff. It seems to be thicker than it used to be. I've called the manufacturer a couple of times complaining but they keep telling me it's the same it's always been. Only thing I haven't tried is some other crazy kind of blade.... Getting frustrated Our contract for governement vehicles is switching to 80% of this stuff compared to the current graphics package and I'll be cutting this stuff all the time soon. I really need to figure out a way to cut through this stuff easier. any suggestions?? thanks in advance!
  21. Dry application is risky for a layered job - you cant move into position - No I would not use a heatgun. Your customer needs a better paint job before you do any more work.
  22. I love bumping old threads...information is still very relevant and valuable (since the same questions keep popping up) so...bump, bump, bump! Bookmark and visit: http://www.uscuttersupport.com/downloads/Software/SignBlazer/ It lists the PDF manual (40 MB), signblazer_elements_trial.exe (34.8 MB) and signblazer_setup.exe (35.1 MB) If you've already read this thread from beginning to end you'll have a good idea which version is which.
  23. Me? First, I would mark up the product... the numbers. If they cost you 23 cents each (including shipping) I would charge say, 30 cents per letter/number just for the "product". Now, on the labor side, you say a good customer.....how good is up to you, but for me I could do say "by the hour" Meaning either time your job or questimate the time it will take and multiply by the hourly rate you would want to pay yourself and go from there. Just a thought. Maybe that might help.
  24. any solution on this problem? I have the same problem but am only cutting text..no graphics yet. Just unpacked mine, installed drivers and Cuts a Lot software. Both test cut and test connection are ok. HELP!!
  25. Does anyone here operate a sporting goods store? We do lots of uniforms, and would like to be able to sell some select brands of cleats and other things that go with the uniforms. I am trying to find a supplier.
  26. The cutter will only cut a vector,file, which is comprised of nodes,.outlines...ai,.eps, .fs and more vector files. The cutter will not cut a raster image, which are pixals. like a jpeg or bitmap.If that is not the answer you are looking for, then please explain more.
  27. Being Army we don't get to do these often, but they look good. I'm usually stuck doing the usual retirement plaques on our laser. We have an Epilog Zing 24 30 Watt.
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