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SSW
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« Reply #195 on: October 02, 2009, 10:19:46 AM » |
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cutme
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« Reply #196 on: October 02, 2009, 10:21:26 AM » |
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you can contour cut without a laser for alignment, just use the blade itself. not as easy but doable.
bb
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laserpoint24, epson wf1100
Women and cats will do as they please, and men and dogs should relax and get used to the idea.
Robert A. Heinlein
"Show me a sane man and I will cure him for you. " - Carl Gustav Jung (1875-1961)
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dbtoutfit
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« Reply #197 on: October 02, 2009, 10:54:45 AM » |
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I agree with Cutme.
His right you will just have to zero your x and y offset.
As far as the laser pointers go. It's true that they can be very bright but they have mini laser pointers and the cheap ones are weak as all get out. These are the ones I am referring to. Small and cheap.
Eric
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CRD
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« Reply #198 on: October 02, 2009, 11:32:40 AM » |
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I also talking about small and cheap.  But still to bright. Paco |
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Never to old to learn and I learn every day. ;-) PCUT LASERPOINT 24", SIGNCUT PRODUCTIVITY, CORELX4, ILLUSTRATOR CS3. Not enough time........... www.customracingdecal.com |
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dbtoutfit
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« Reply #199 on: October 02, 2009, 12:06:33 PM » |
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We had some small cheapo's at our gas station I purchased to use on my cnc machine and man I swear those things were super weak.
I guess the thing to do is if you can is to test it out. Plus you could always lower the voltage which is a given.
But anyways getting off subject here a little.
What mill does your decals end up coming out CRD once you have them completed?
Eric
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CRD
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« Reply #200 on: October 02, 2009, 01:55:02 PM » |
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160 uM total that is 80 uM for the vinyl and 80 uM for the uv layer when it comes from my print shop.
Home made decals are 150 uM total that is for the vinyl 100 uM and 50uM for the transparant layer.
Paco
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Never to old to learn and I learn every day. ;-) PCUT LASERPOINT 24", SIGNCUT PRODUCTIVITY, CORELX4, ILLUSTRATOR CS3. Not enough time........... www.customracingdecal.com |
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dbtoutfit
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« Reply #201 on: October 02, 2009, 03:15:35 PM » |
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So about 6mil or .006"?
Thanks
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CRD
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« Reply #202 on: October 02, 2009, 03:36:02 PM » |
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um = micro meter. Yes around 6 mil (not milimeter) http://www.convertunits.com/from/mils/to/mm#Paco |
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« Last Edit: October 02, 2009, 03:42:32 PM by CRD »
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Never to old to learn and I learn every day. ;-) PCUT LASERPOINT 24", SIGNCUT PRODUCTIVITY, CORELX4, ILLUSTRATOR CS3. Not enough time........... www.customracingdecal.com |
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dbtoutfit
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« Reply #203 on: October 02, 2009, 04:08:56 PM » |
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yep
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CRD
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« Reply #204 on: October 02, 2009, 04:15:20 PM » |
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There are 120 um or thicker material available but for what I do (modelcars) it must be thin enough to form them to hollow or round parts like bodies and strong enough to not get them ripped by mechanical forces. Weigth is also and issue.
So it is a balance between them all.
Paco
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Never to old to learn and I learn every day. ;-) PCUT LASERPOINT 24", SIGNCUT PRODUCTIVITY, CORELX4, ILLUSTRATOR CS3. Not enough time........... www.customracingdecal.com |
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dbtoutfit
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« Reply #205 on: October 02, 2009, 04:51:31 PM » |
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Yea on the rc cars I'm trying to keep the weight down. Thus why i was asking about the thckness.
Eric
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NukleoN
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« Reply #206 on: October 21, 2009, 10:49:48 PM » |
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How come people don't just contour-cut in one pass? You know, print out the graphics with registration-marks, laminate with clear-UV-protective laminate and then contour-cut and weed. The downside is that the paper and laminate end at the same spot, but it simplifies the process. If the laminate is well-stuck to the graphics then everything should be fine in an outdoor application.
Is there any reason this wouldn't work? I don't have a working inkjet printer to test this yet.
From my research, the way to go for home use is Durabrite Ink only available on Epson on a quality white inkjet paper like Papilion with a clear-overlaminate for max-outdoor life. The clear-overlam provides the necessary UV protection and is a physical barrier too, and apparently makes the colors pop even more.
This is the route I am going once I get my Epson Workforce 40. I've looked into the Artainium inks but I don't see any reason to use those other than for the batch application, where ink is bought in bags rather than cartridges.
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CRD
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« Reply #207 on: October 21, 2009, 11:37:42 PM » |
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Nukleon,
That is how I work for 1 year now without problems.
Paco
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Never to old to learn and I learn every day. ;-) PCUT LASERPOINT 24", SIGNCUT PRODUCTIVITY, CORELX4, ILLUSTRATOR CS3. Not enough time........... www.customracingdecal.com |
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NukleoN
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« Reply #208 on: October 23, 2009, 12:20:34 AM » |
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I saw some people talking about various vinyls. I plan to use Papilio's vinyl-paper (white) since they specifically recommend Durabrite inks for their paper. I think using the right products here should really make a difference. Combined with an overlaminate I figure this will be great for outdoor-use.
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dbtoutfit
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« Reply #209 on: November 07, 2009, 03:17:44 PM » |
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You can simply go one pass. For indoor apps I do this, such as merchandise. But for outdoor use I do the clear layer offset to protect the edges. Going the extra step is something I offer that my customers like that my competitors do not offer.
Eric
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